Как менялся офисный костюм женщин на Западе в 20 веке
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1899
A woman typing in an office. The calendar on the wall of the office dates this image, taken from a stereoscope card originally titled "Flirtation." While this is clearly not a real office, British middle-class Victorian women were employed in offices across the late 1800s. The woman wears a very full skirt, apparently with crinoline hoops, which by 1899 were something of an anachronism. The typewriter had been commercially widespread since the mid 1870s.
IMAGE: THE PRINT COLLECTOR/PRINT COLLECTOR/GETTY IMAGES
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September 1911
Women in the editorial department of Clement's Inn, The Strand, London. That week's edition of 'Votes for Women' is being cut and pasted by the young woman volunteers at the 'making-up table.' All the woman have long hair tied up in loose buns. Most of the woman wear white blouses and full skirts — two wear neck ties.
IMAGE: MUSEUM OF LONDON/HERITAGE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES
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1917
Office at the railway works in Horwich, Lancashire, England. During the First World War many male rail workers joined the army, so women were employed in their place, in a variety of roles including blacksmiths, welders and electricians. Most of the women in this office wear white blouses, but the blouses are more closely fitting than in the previous picture. Their hair is still worn up, though now more loosely, and one woman — at the card cabinets — has shoulder-length hair worn down, while another wears long braids. At least two younger women also have white bows in their hair. The woman in the left foreground shows a shorter skirt length and a leather shoe with a golfing-style flap.
IMAGE: SCIENCE AND SOCIETY PICTURE LIBRARY
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c. 1920
Women sorting mail at the post office during the Christmas rush in England. The women wear a range of blouses, and the woman front-left wears a cardigan and a set of pearls. Their hair is again worn loosely tied up. The woman front-right wears a striped dress, as we're starting to see more patterns.
IMAGE: FPG/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES
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c. 1932
Women working on forms for the conversion of the war loan at Government Printing and Stationery Office in Harrow, England. The older women wear their long hair tied up, though a number of the younger women have shorter, shoulder-length hair, some with a permanent wave or "perm." Several wear over-dresses without sleeves, and one woman, right, has bare arms.
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c. 1930s
An American secretary sits at a desk behind a typewriter, on the phone taking messages. She wears black, and her blouse is semi-sheer. Her hair is worn neck-length with a permanent wave.
IMAGE: H. ARMSTRONG ROBERTS/RETROFILE/GETTY IMAGES)
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1942
325 American women working to fill mail orders in the office of the Book of the Month Club. The women wear a wide variety of blouses and dresses, including decorative patterns and polka dots, though most have V-necks. Some wear brooches. They typically wear shoulder-length hair; some, as the woman at the front, use hair nets.
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1948
Ford Modeling Agency co-owner Eileen Ford and her husband answering calls requesting one of their 34 high fashion models. They're in her third floor office in New York. She is dressed in black, barefoot and has her hair cut short.
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19th August 1950
Published in 'Picture Post' with the original caption: 'A woman wearing a black satin dress by Brenner with baby lace around the sleeves, neck and hemline which is not really suitable for the office.'
IMAGE: LEE MILLER/PICTURE POST/GETTY IMAGES
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28th September 1950
A young woman being interviewed for a job in the Keystone photographic agency offices. Her male interviewer wears a tie and large collar, while holding a cigarette. She still wears her raincoat indoors, under which we can spot her plaid skirt. She has long hair, tied up.
IMAGE: KEYSTONE/GETTY IMAGES
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1956
Women office workers eat boxed lunches in Union Square, San Francisco, California. Their suits are formal, in conservative colours. Their hair is worn short, typically parted at the side. All the women appear to be wearing tan stockings or hose.
IMAGE: B. ANTHONY STEWART/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES
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c. 1955
Women at work in a typing pool at Shell Mex House in London. The woman at the front wears a jacket and scarf with a brooch and earrings. Her hair is cut short on her forehead, and like the other women shown, is worn waved.
IMAGE: EVENING STANDARD/GETTY IMAGES
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1957
This woman sits at an illustrator's desk. She is dressed in black and wears a turtleneck sweater. Her hair is cut very short.
IMAGE: WALTER SANDERS/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES
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1960s
An American secretary typing whilst listening to dictation on her headset. She wears a sleeveless blue top and a blue checked skirt. Her hair is sharply cut and worn chin-length in a brushed bob.
IMAGE: H. ARMSTRONG ROBERTS/RETROFILE/GETTY IMAGES
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1968
Administration office at Huntsman House, headquarters of Tetley's brewers in Leeds, West Yorkshire. Women workers use Sumlock machines, forerunners of the calculator. They wear clothes in a palette of bright colours. Of the 17 women in the picture, four wear pastel yellow, three wear pastel pink, two wear pastel blue. The women have a wide variety of hair styles, most strongly volumized with hairspray.
IMAGE: PAUL WALTERS WORLDWIDE PHOTOGRAPHY LTD./HERITAGE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES
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11th November 1970
Women operators man computers at Eastern Airlines' reservations center in Miami, Florida. The woman in the centre-front wears a brightly striped top and very naturally styled hair, held loosely in a clip. The woman to the left wears a yellow cotton top and shoes. Cardigans are loosely flung over the backs of their chairs.
IMAGE: BRUCE DALE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES
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1970s
A woman using a data entry computer. She wears a bright pink skirt suit with white collar, cuffs and belt. The skirt is between thigh- and knee-length. Her hair is highly stylised, likely held in place with hairspray.
IMAGE: PHOTO BY H. ARMSTRONG ROBERTS/RETROFILE/GETTY IMAGES
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1974
Two women working with an IBM 1130 computer. Both wear highly patterned wide-collared tops. Their hair is styled naturally.
IMAGE: BARBARA FREEMAN/GETTY IMAGES
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1975
An African-American office worker takes a phone call. She wears a loose-fitting cardigan with a wide collar and wide, loose pants. Her shoes are unusually patterned. She wears a bracelet and ring, and her hair is lightly styled.
IMAGE: FPG/ARCHIVE PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES)
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c. 1980
An office worker logs addresses into a Data General computer at a direct-mail company in Boston, Massachusetts. She wears a knit, fitted top; her hair is naturally styled and worn short.
IMAGE: FPG/ARCHIVE PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
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c. 1982
A woman uses a personal computer at the NCR research and development facility in West Columbia, South Carolina. She wears a blouse with rolled sleeves and a formal knee- or calf-length tweed skirt, with court shoes. Her hair is shoulder-length, held away from her face by a slide.
IMAGE: PHOTO BY HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES
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April 1987
Belgian-born American fashion designer Diane Von Furstenberg in her studio. Furstenberg has very strong makeup, including gloss lipstick. She wears large hoop earrings and oversized bracelets and rings. She dresses in black, accented with a white pocket handkerchief on her chest.
IMAGE: ROSE HARTMAN/ARCHIVE PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
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5th February 1989
An office worker during the launch of Sky TV in London. She wears a green double-breasted jacket, possibly part of a uniform. Her hair is feathered in layers. In the background another woman wears a similar jacket. Her hair is bleached and waved over large earrings.
IMAGE: GEORGES DE KEERLE/GETTY IMAGES
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1996
Sue Julian-Ottie, a collections system data manager, using a database computer. Her hair is long and natural, with side-swept bangs. She wears a dark, striped suit jacket.
IMAGE: SSPL/GETTY IMAGES
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5th July 1999
A woman in a German call centre. She wears a scoop-neck, snug, short-sleeved top with a blue floral pattern. The neckline of the top is edged with lace, as are its sleeves. Although the overall garment design implies a connection to Victorian and Edwardian women's wear, as seen in the first pictures in this piece, it actually has little in common with women's garments of a hundred years before. This woman has a thumb ring and layered 'choker' necklaces.
IMAGE: ULRICH BAUMGARTEN VIA GETTY IMAGES
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5th July 1999
Woman in a call center in Germany. Her highlighted hair is worn back in a low messy bun. She wears very light-coloured lipstick, a black T-shirt with a denim jacket on the back of her chair. A tattoo encircles her right upper arm.
IMAGE: ULRICH BAUMGARTEN / GETTY IMAGES
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