Мода 70-90-х годов 18 века.

marinni — 02.02.2010

Мода 70-90-х годов 18 века.

Мода 70-90-х годов 18 века. В этом посте мне хотелось бы показать переход от огромных панье к совершенно простым платьям конца 18 века. Существует стереотип- Мария-Антуанетта связывается у нас с восприятии как раз с роскошными платьями с юбкой на панье, в России это называли "фижмами". Но и Мария-Антуанетта, и Екатерина II в 1780-е годы перешли к значительно более скромным и простым формам платьев.




Скачок моды:

Слева-90-е годы, справа- мода 1870-х годов.




---------------------Мария-Антуаннетта---------------


Portrait of Archduchess Maria Antonia of Austria at the age of seven years, 1762, Schloss Sch?nbrunn, Vienna.



Jean-Etienne Liotard, 1762, Ginevra, Mus?e d'art. Maria-Antonia at the age of seven years.





F?te Organized to Celebrate the Marriage of the Emperor Joseph II to Princess Marie-Jos?phe of Bavaria 23/24 January 1765.
. The role of cupid was played by the Archduke Maximilian, while the Archduke Ferdinand portrayed the Groom and the Archduchess Marie-Antoinette the Bride. The young ladies from left to right were Countesses Christine and Th?r?se von Clary und Aldringen, and Countesses Christine and Pauline von Auersperg.








Archduchess Maria Antonia of Austria, Dauphine of France and the later Queen Marie Antoinette of France, is playing the harpe at the French Court, 1774, Versailles. Maria Antonietta suona l'arpa nella sua stanza a Versailles.
Author Jean-Baptiste Gautier Dagoty






Marie-Antoinette, by Jean-Baptiste Gautier Dagoty


Queen Marie-Antoinette (detail)
Italiano: La regina Maria Antonietta (dettaglio)
Date 1778





Engraving of queen Marie-Antoinette of France and Navarre, in the Gallerie des modes.





?lisabeth Vig?e-Lebrun (1755(1755)–1842(1842))
1783

------------------------------------------------

------------------Немного примеров из эпохи панье---------------


Гранд-панье и кринолины- очень большая тема, я обязательно подробно постараюсь показать портретную живопись, модные картинки и сохранившиеся платья, частично они у меня есть в посте о карикатурах и прическах 18 века.




----------------гранд - панье------------------

----------------рисунки-----------------------



1778 fashion plate of French court dress with wide panniers and artificially enhanced "big hair". Plate 43 in Galerie des Modes for 1778.










Paniers made skirts so wide that ladies had to go through doors sideways
----------------------Платья из музеев-----------


гранд - панье
1760s-70s


Caption: "Jeune Dame de Qualit? en grande Robe co?ff?e avec un Bonnet ou Pouf ?l?gant dit la Victoire. Dessin? par Desrais. Grav? par Voysant."

dressing for Court
http://teaattrianon.blogspot.com/2009/09/marie-antoinette-and-court-dress.html




French court dress with wide panniers

French court dress with wide panniers

French court dress with wide panniers

http://fashionismymuse.blogspot.com/2008/07/court-dress-and-hoop-petticoats-at.html



Еще было платье "полонез" и платье со "складкой Ватто" и так далее,- можно очень много интересных картинок показать, что я обязательно сделаю, а также еще выложу модниц и "макарони" эпохи Людовика 16. А сейчас меня интересует именно переходная эпоха к абсолютно простым платьям 1790-х.

1755-1760 (made)



1760-1765 (made)

Cкладка Ватто.

1760-1765 (made)

Cкладка Ватто.



1775-1780 (made)



-----------------Платье-полонез---------------------


POLONAISE: "dress with fullness in back where a sash was tied into a bow" (romance).

18c:
"The polonaise gown first came into fashion in the 1770s. It was a style of gown with a close-fitting bodice and the back of the skirt gathered up into three separate puffed sections to reveal the petticoat below. The method of suspending the fabric varied. Most often the dress had rows of little rings sewn inside the skirt through which a cord ran from hem to waist. Alternatively, ribbon ties would be used with the ribbons forming decorative bows. However, in some instances the skirt was held in place by simple cords sewn to the inner waist of the dress and looped over buttons attached to the outside waistline.



---------------------------смена моды----------------------------




портрет Марии-Антуанетты, Элизабет Виже-Лебрен, 1785,

Marie-Antoinette (c 1785).

Marie-Antoinette d'Autriche, reine de France (1755-1793)
Year 1788


Engraving of Marie Antoinette von Habsburg-Lothringen

Date 1873???


Queen Marie Antoinette of France, daughter of Empress Maria Theresia of Austria and Holy Roman Emperor Franz I. Stephan of Lorraine, 1778, collezione privata, Parigi, oil on canvas


==================================================================




-------------------Екатерина II----------------

Тоже в 1780-е годы уменьшился обьем юбки



ANTROPOV, Aleksey Petrovich
Portrait of Catherine II
before 1766
Oil on canvas, 51 x 38 cm
The Hermitage, St. Petersburg
Other works by the artist...




ROSLIN, Alexander
Portrait of Catherine II
1776-77
Oil on canvas, 274 x 190 cm
The Hermitage, St. Petersburg
Other works by the artist...





LEVITSKY, Dmitry Grigorevich
Portrait of Catherine II
1780s
Oil on canvas
Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow

---------------------Костюм 1770-начала 1780-х---------------------
------------модные картинки------------------------

---------------------1770---------------------



Ladies' fashions. (1876)



[French woman reading, 1770s.]



Dames Francaises. 1778-79. D'ap[r?s] nature par Desrais. Robe a la Levantine, cheveux a l'enfance. Robe Polonaise, taill... (1778-1779)







------------------------------1780-е--------------------------

[French woman holding a book, 1780s.]







French woman holding a fan, 1780s.




[French men, women, and a child, 1774-1792.]




French woman holding the hand of a young girl, eighteenth century.]

Franz?sische Modedame, um 1786. (1786)

[Women, man, and children indoors, France, 1780s.

Dame fran?aise. (1787)

[Women and a girl, France, 1787-1792.


French woman in an alluring pose, 1770s.]

Franz?sische Modedame, 1785



Man and woman, France, 1780s

Sous Louis 16. (1785)
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/10/fancy-dress.html#more


Fancy dress costume
c. 1883-87





-------------------------1780-е-------------------




VIG?E-LEBRUN, ?lisabeth
Self-Portrait in a Straw Hat
after 1782
Oil on canvas, 98 x 70 cm
National Gallery, London


DUVIVIER, Jan Bernard
Portrait of the Villers Family
1790
Oil on canvas, 112 x 145 cm
Groeninge Museum, Bruges



Louise G?ly (1776-1856), seconde femme de Georges Jacques Danton, qu’elle ?pouse le 17 juin 1793, se tient debout derri?re Antoine Danton, fils de Gabrielle Charpentier, premi?re femme de l’avocat. Louise sera veuve ? 17 ans.
English: Illustration of woman wearing early 1790's "pouter pigeon" outfit.



REYNOLDS, Sir Joshua
Lady Sunderlin
1786
Oil on canvas, 236 x 145 cm
Staatliche Museen, Berlin
Other works by the artist...




Antoine Vestier
English: Portrait of a Lady with a Book, Next to a River's Source
Portugu?s: Retrato de Dama com Livro Junto a uma Fonte
Year circa 1785

-----------------------1780-е-Marie Antoinette-----------------------


Marie Antoinette ? la rose.

Date 1786

Queen Marie Antoinette of France with her children Princess Marie Therese Charlotte of France and Dauphin Louis Joseph of France, by artist Adolf Ulrich Wertm?ller 1785-1786 (National Museum, Stockholm).







Varennes
http://derniersbourbons.canalblog.com/archives/la_famille_de_louis_xvi/index.html







-----------------------------Рубеж-----------------------------------


Print made by Alexis Chataignier
Satire on the Incroyables: two couples, one an Incroyable and Merveilleuse, the other of the ancien r?gime, mock each other. 1797
Etching and engraving

-----------------------КАЗНЬ---


Коллаж
Thanks to
http://fashionismymuse.blogspot.com/search/label/Marie%20Antoinette



Marie Antoinette's execution in 1793 at the Place de la R?volution


File:Marie Antoinette being taken to her Execution, 1794.jpg

K?nigin Marie Antoinette vor ihrer Hinrichtung, Stahlstich um 1850

---------------------90-е-Республика--------------------------


Modes revolutionnaires Paris, Sept. 1789, Mars, Avril, et Aout 1790. (1789; 1790)

Modes Francaises, de 1791. D'ap[r?s] des gravures du temps. (1791)

Robe a la circassienne (1796) ; Robe a l'anglaise (1789) ; D?shabill? en caraco (1788).

[French women, 1790

Modes fran?aises, de 1791.




Brabancone vetue a la fran?aise, Paris 1790-91 ; Femme de Paris etc. 1792-93.



B?rgerliche Tracht 1790-1792.



Costume d'une rouanaise a la F?d?ration. (1892)



La causerie : life in Paris in 1793

-----------------------после 1793----------------------




GU?RIN, Jean-Urbain
Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, with Lady Elizabeth Foster
c. 1791




Francisco de Goya (1746(1746)–1828(1828))
Portr?t der Do?a Tadea Arias de Enriquez
Year 1793-1794


Portrait of Madame Emilie Seriziat and her Son; 131 ? 96 cm.
Date 1795(1795)
Jacques-Louis David



--------------Карикатуры-------------------------------------


The inside of the lady's garden at Vauxhall
Published by S W Fores (biographical details | all objects)
Date
1788

The interior of a ladies' cloak-room. Against the wall on two sides of the room is a bench forming a latrine on which four fashionably dressed ladies are seated.




La belle assembl?e by James Gillray


-----------------после революции-----------------

Предельно простые платья, но модники и модницы и в эту эпоху были в большом количестве- их называли Incroyables- мужчины и Merveilleuses- дамы. Есть очень много картинок и особенно, карикатур, я их тоже обязательно покажу.




Parisian Ladies in their winter dress for 1800
Print made by John Cawse
Date
1799


Following the Fashion" a December 1794 caricature by James Gillray, which satirizes incipient neo-Classical trends in women's clothing styles

H!a quel vent! C'est incroyable
Published by L Bonvalet
Production place
Published in Paris (all objects)
Date
1797

Satire on the Incroyables: two couples face each other, the Incroyable in one peers through a glass as the wind lifts off the wig of the Merveilleuse of the other. c.1797


Le Petit Coblentz
After Jean Baptiste Isabey (biographical details | all objects)
Print made by Eug?ne Loizelet (biographical details | all objects)
Date
1795-1800

Social satire: a group of fashionably dressed Incroyables and Merveilleuses on a street in Paris; a reproductive etching of 1875 after a watercolour by Isabey of c.1798
Hand-coloured etching and aquatint


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